FROM A BREWERY that self-admittedly “doesn’t really do dark beers,” Lagunitas acquits themselves rather well with this Imperial Stout. That’s not to say it’s much of a prodigal product: unusually hoppy (especially for a stout), it cleaves well to the Lagunitas modus operandi in spirit if not quite in appearance. The level of carbonation is one clue to its origins, though, as rising bubbles remain visible for some minutes after the pour, even through the dark chocolate color and Guinness-lite head. The aroma is fairly dense with cocoa, some espresso, and citrus peel notes like those found in chocolate oranges. Smooth on entry, its roasted midpalate offers some balance to the hops, and the coffee only comes through in the aftertaste. A pleasant and lingering finish leaves some alcohol traces (it is 9.2% after all), reminding one that this is a beer in hand and not a cappuccino to be quaffed en route to anywhere. And rightly so. Sit down with it and stay there.
Served: On tap (Bigby’s Pour House, Addison)