ROGUE IS USUALLY a sound bet for big (and malty) beers done tastefully, but here they’ve made a red ale that takes its name a bit too far. Visually akin to their staple Dead Guy, if somewhat more copper than amber, St. Rogue leads with some pleasant caramel malts and spry carbonation that seems headed for success. Alas, despite the piney dry-hopping that should bitter it up, the dominant flavor that seems to emerge is of red food coloring. Generous notes of grass and grain in the medium body aren’t enough to dispel this clinging aftertaste or the 5.1% ABV that slips in slightly around the finish. Perhaps a bad batch, but overall the impression is vaguely of a lambic that didn’t quite get over the hump.
Served: On tap (Yard House, Glenview)