ASIDE FROM AMERICAN PALATES just not quite being prepared for lambics*, it could be that American brewers are hesitant to flock to the style when the classics have cornered the market so mercilessly. (This drank from a bottle on an overnight train to Germany amidst a power outage, thus few notes on color. Impressions were of a murky orange, not unlike a wort fresh off the boil.) Potently carbonated (forced?) and a high, lacy head. Deeply complex: after a first champagne like burst, instantly dry on the palate like ash (likely the unfiltered influence), then intense flavors closing in on the center of the tongue. A heady aroma of sour, old fruit from its years cycling through the barrels. Definitively sour, but not puckering or overbalanced. Quite a bit of cask grain to help attenuate this, with an oaky peak after the initial finish. No hops to note, other flavors coming in pulses, closing with a bit of salt and a mineral but not metallic final swell. Bold pairings only.**
* – This may have been true in the past, but no longer; sour beers on the whole are now one of the fastest-growing styles amongst American craft brewers. Perhaps the IPA’s days as America’s alpha are numbered?
** – And bold they were. Paired with a Jonagold apple, pickles, and Macedonian chorizo from Mikkeller Bar, Copenhagen. Stridency at its most satisfying.
Served: 375 ml bottle (cork: Ref EX 2013)