AT FRÜH AM DOM, situated between the Toto-playing enclave and the southern plaza of the Dom itself. A cluttered and contorted entry leads to a tall, winding atrium with tables placed all around its curving contours. An atmosphere private for its three-dimensional asymmetry, despite the openness at its heart. German Pilsner clarity and a wispy egg white head. Aroma gives up more than expected with some slightly sweet tree fruit (green apples, pears) and a touch of hop bitterness. Another underlying density, perhaps the yeasts, suggests something sweet, nearly diacetyl, perhaps honey? Body is overall light and a bit of grain lingers through moderate carbonation. A substantiating bit of bitterness coming in around 40% instead of at the finish, which is clean but a little fuller than expected. Like the pale yellow (French’s plus a smidge of dirt) senf that peppers briefly and then relaxes, it is a bit tame overall.
Served: Gravity tap (Früh am Dom, Cologne)