FOR A FIST-PUMPING, propaganda-printing brewery such as Revolution, it’s a little surprising that they attempted something so sessionable as the Cross of Gold. They call it a Golden Ale, others might say an English Pale. Either way, it’s a mild, 5% ABV brew of 25 IBUs, pouring a semi-straw yellow with a small head a select few yeasty pockets. Not the most impressive look, frankly. Aromas are of cereal, lighter honey, gentle Cascade dry-hopping, and a smooth presence wheat–decidedly not the spicy or peppery sort found in a Weizen. Its mouthfeel is a nice splash of carbonation and slightly prickly hops–a straight and mild bitterness–that transitions to a creamy midsection and further wheat smoothness. From there it tapers off too much, leaving a brief impression of water before a small alcohol rise and ultimately a sense that something was left out of the brew. A spice or two? Perhaps a bit more complexity to the grain bill? It’s difficult to say exactly what’s amiss with the Cross of Gold; overall it just seems to be a little milquetoast.
Served: On tap (Sweet Baby Ray’s, Chicago)