AMIDST THE GRANDSTANDING and gaudy branding of new breweries clamoring for attention, the minimalist tack of Chicago’s Une Année is welcome. Not yet two years old, Une Année brews Belgian-inspired ales with a seasonal focus: their Less is More Saison is one of only two beers currently deemed perpétuel (i.e. year-round). As its name implies it’s also the mildest brew in a high-gravity lineup at 4.6% ABV, while their other ales average more than 8%.
Less is More hardly kowtows to the lowest common denominator, though. Sessionable it may be, but with vigorous aroma and confident flavors it doesn’t depend upon volume to satisfy. Indeed, Less is More checks off virtually all the great Saison hallmarks: a little early dustiness balanced by zippy citric and lemon, light malts blended with wheat for a little extra texture in the body, still quite spicy, dry on the palate and with a tight, zesty finish. Some may still prefer flashier examples of this style, but for a cultured and comfortable table beer less in this case truly is more.
Served: On tap (Beer Hoptacular, Chicago)