Heaven Hill Distillery – John E. Fitzgerald Larceny 1870 Straight Bourbon

Larceny 1870 BourbonTHIS LATEST EFFORT from Heaven Hill claims a long legacy—back to 1870, unsurprisingly enough—and namedrops Pappy Van Winkle amidst its well-toned promotional material. The relevant details are that it’s a 92 proof straight bourbon distilled with wheat as its complementary grain in place of rye with the goal of a smoother profile. Perhaps, but only with water—taken neat, the deep amber Larceny is rather too pointed in its spice and barrel char. Once given some time to spread out and diluted just a touch, its mouthfeel becomes much rounder and more approachable, revealing vanilla, a bit of honey, some corn sweetness, and a slight flowery flourish in the lasting finish, where some roughness of the barrel notes return. Though aged for a six-year profile, Larceny has the pop of a young bourbon, tannic with fruit skins and a little husky. An arresting profile altogether and somehow more composed than its key descriptors would suggest, its steadied by a sturdy body and underlying notes of caramel. Altogether a reasonable buy at approximately $25, especially compared to some ill-fitted grain bills that retail for twice the price. That’s your cue, Koval…

Rating: 83

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