Heaven Hill Distillery – John E. Fitzgerald Larceny 1870 Straight Bourbon

THIS LATEST EFFORT from Heaven Hill claims a long legacy—back to 1870, unsurprisingly enough—and namedrops Pappy Van Winkle amidst its well-toned promotional material. The relevant details are that it’s a 92 proof straight bourbon distilled with wheat as its complementary grain in place of rye with the goal of a smoother profile. Perhaps, but only with water—taken neat, the deep amber Larceny is rather too pointed in its spice and barrel char. Once given some time to spread out and diluted just a touch, its mouthfeel becomes much rounder and more approachable, revealing vanilla, a bit of honey, some corn sweetness, and a slight flowery flourish in the lasting finish, where some roughness of the barrel notes return. Though aged for a six-year profile, Larceny has the pop of a young bourbon, tannic with fruit skins and a little husky. An arresting profile altogether and somehow more composed than its key descriptors would suggest, its steadied by a sturdy body and underlying notes of caramel. Altogether a reasonable buy at approximately $25, especially compared to some ill-fitted grain bills that retail for twice the price. That’s your cue, Koval…

Rating: 83

Jim Beam – Old Grand-Dad Bonded 100 Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon

100 PROOF, reportedly around 30% rye, and less than $20 for a handle, Old Grand Dad hits the palate with the same unsubtle pop of his orange bottle. There are no illusions of refinement here—Old Grand-Dad is a firebrand, a sharp-tongued codger, and proud of it. As he should be, frankly, as one of the top bargains for a robust high-rye bourbon, and a straight one besides.

Though by no means one-note, Old Grand-Dad’s overarching impression is unified, quickly revealing its charcoal and raw oak in the aroma, then turning spicy and slightly astringent on the palate. Rye and pepper slot into the alcohol heat of the finish, where the body tapers off, a little sharply but absent any plasticy burn. Once past the gruff exterior Old Grand-Dad shows a slightly softer side with some corn sweetness and low hints of banana, pear, and a drop of honey—a slight reprieve, but definitely more in the buckwheat vein than wildflower. Perhaps those fruit esters would be given a little more room with a douse of water and at 100 proof the spirit could certainly spare the dilution. It would also stand up handily as a mixer with anything from a splash of ginger ale to a full on mint julep. But Grand-Dad himself probably wouldn’t approve of such excitations, and he’s still fine company on his own. Once one gets used to his nettles.

Rating: 84

Breckenridge Distillery – Breckenridge Bourbon Whiskey

AN AMBITIOUS physician abandons the corporate world to invest his savings in a new craft alcohol company. Ensconced high up in the mountains of Breckenridge, Colorado, the brand touts small batches, pure ingredients, and painstaking recipes. Capitalizing on local tourism and clever branding, they enjoy extraordinary growth and go on to surprise established brands at major tasting competitions. Sound familiar? It’s been the craft beer MO for decades now, but the brand in question is not Breckenridge Brewery and its product no Vanilla Porter.

Rather, this is bourbon. But from the Rockies? Contrary to common conception, bourbon is not a regionally controlled product (like scotch or champagne) but a process: at least 50% corn in the mash, aging in first-use charred barrels, and a few other steps that replicable anywhere in the US, not just the verdant hills of Kentucky responsible for 95% of the world’s supply. Breckenridge’s spirit is a bourbon, then, though it is not legally ‘straight’ (at least, not yet), which would require it to be barrel-aged for at least three years. That threshold loosely compares to the blended vs. single malt divide in scotch, but the lesser designation hasn’t stopped Breckenridge’s whiskey from racking up the tasting medals.

And with good reason. Early on the palate it is tremendously smooth, giving some credence to the obligatory buzzwords about high-altitude snowmelt, etc. Another distinguishing factor is the 38% rye in its grain bill, several times the average and one of the highest of any standard bourbon; its white pepperiness plays to the young spirit’s vivacity instead of trying to imply a false maturity or depth. The midsection is pleasantly sweet and the mouthfeel well-rounded, showing more of caramel than corn. Oak is light in the mixture, though the aging was sufficient to impart some pleasant vanilla and a touch of char. Its middling finish is balanced despite the slight burn of its back end from its 86 proof. Overall the profile is confident, if not especially layered, and could be served neat or as an vigorous cocktail centerpiece. Originally sourced from Kentucky producers, the bourbon is reportedly now all distilled and aged in Breckenridge. One hopes they’ll continue to develop their portfolio with a straight, 100% Colorado offering in the near future. Until then this version will do just fine.

Rating: 88

Revolution Brewing – E. NorMA Gene Imperial Porter

WITH AT LEAST nine distinct permutations, Revolution Brewing’s Eugene Porter is one of the most hardworking and wealth-sharing beers in the Chicago scene. Fitting, considering the beer’s name comes from union leader and Socialist party candidate Eugene Debs. The undisputed pinnacle of that pyramid (to date) is E. NorMA Gene, a barrel-aged imperial porter weighing in at 12% ABV. As one would expect it’s served in a snifter with a scant few patches of dark tan head atop an irredeemably black body. A weighty capstone for any monument, but one set upon strong foundations.

On the nose E. NorMA loads up on chocolate malts piqued briefly with tart red fruit, some barrel tannins, caramelized sugar, and a smoothing veil of oak. When lightly chilled it has just enough carbonation–extremely fine bubbles, yet still enough to perk up the mouthfeel and keep its granulation from becoming too gritty. The caramel found in the basic Eugene is also present, though here its viscosity is more akin to molasses. Its body bursts with sweetness and malts thoroughly kilned, though much more roasted than toasted, more chocolate than blackened. Oak and sweet corn (by way of bourbon) also figure prominently early on before succumbing to gobs of vanilla and cacao. The finish is balanced passingly by solid alcohol warmth and some slickness to cut through its girth. Hops, meanwhile, are a remote dream (IBU of 60 probably could/should have been 70). It also follows that the base Eugene uses Belgian yeast: though not really prominent in flavor, one can sense a little of its powder and a slight cloying texture towards the end that doesn’t match up with traditional chocolate or milk sweeteners.

As the beer warms, though, an increasing interplay between chocolate and vanilla upon a rising bourbon oak floor make it ever more akin to Goose Island’s Bourbon County Brand Stout. The template is dependable, derived from the largest shadow cast of the Midwest’s barrel-aged beers, but it also makes one wonder at what point Eugene trades in his porter party colors for stout’s. And although it is delicious all around, E. Norma is ultimately a little too sugary sweet. Derived exclusively from first runnings of the wort, its decadence is like a double chocolate cake of which the eating is divine but the remembering is almost too much.

Perhaps the stout vs. porter distinction is merely academic, since E. NorMA remains one of Chicago’s top-flight barrel-aged dark ales. But attending more to the principles of its base brew might have balanced E. Norma’s sweetness with a little more tangy muscle. Then again, Socialists have never played much to the middle.

Served: On tap (Revolution Taproom, Chicago)

Rating: 90

Woodford Reserve – Distiller’s Select Bourbon

GIVEN THE LOCATION of the distillery—a national historic site where the barrels are hand-rolled onto railroads, the tour guides collect social security, and even the distillery cat, Elijah, is 18 years old—it follows that Woodford Reserve is overall a laid-back and gentle bourbon. Its mash bill of 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% barley yield a gentle, nearly confectionery nose: floral, banana, a little almond nutty, and plenty of vanilla. It’s triple-distilled in longneck Scotch stills and the barrels are flash-toasted and charred for 30 seconds, thus pulling the sap to the surface of the wood and prioritizing its sweetness in the final flavor over other agents like tannins, char, or even the oak itself. Fair amount of rye remains, though, which along with the tangy, comparatively sour-smelling yeast strain used in initial fermentation helps keep this from being cloying and enlivens the long and slightly smoky, slightly peppery finish. Good sipping material, and an American alternative for fans of Irish Whiskey fans. Bottled at 90 proof and aged on average 7.5 years. Modestly overpriced at nearly $40.

Rating: 86

Buffalo Trace – Eagle Rare 10-Year Old Single Barrel

RECOGNIZABLE AS A cousin to Buffalo Trace, Eagle Rare also fulfills its namesake as more regal and meticulous, gliding deeply along the taste buds instead of barreling over them. A bit deeper in hue, it boasts a smoky and seductively earthy nose with plenty of char buried not far beneath the surface. More caramel, tobacco, roasted nut oil and burnt grains in the flavor push aside the hints of melon that had lingered at the edges. Not quite to be compared to a smoky scotch, though, as its chewy body, spicy rye, and sweeter corn finish are all still notably present. Plenty of warmth, too, and that dry edge does also diminish its ability to coat and stick. Still fine for sipping—may respond well to a drop or two of water. 90 proof. High value around $25, decent at $30.

Rating: 89

Buffalo Trace – Buffalo Trace Bourbon

COMPLEX AND BOLD like its namesake, but then also perhaps a bit lacking in dexterity and subtlety. Color a medium-light amber, mash between 70-80% corn, 10-20% rye, and about 10% barley, with rye probably towards the lower end of that range. Yeast is comparatively mild and the mash’s aroma at beer strengths is thick, doughy, and with plenty of malt. Twice-distilled to around 145 proof, watered to around 90, then loaded in to 50-second charred barrels and then aged for aged eight years on the second floor, where temperatures changes are moderate. The result has a solid amber color and aroma rich with spice, some tobacco leaf, corn grain, and bitters. Definitely on the hotter side for palate entry, tracing a distinct line down the gullet and burning mildly. Plenty of finish to dissect, from allspice, clove, and pepper to the definite alcohol heat, tannic leather, and a bit of mint. Would stand up well in cocktails and is a solid value at $20, neither too sweet nor overly rough.

Rating: 85

Diageo – Bulleit Bourbon

A RELATIVE NEWCOMER to the scene, but one endorsed by learned hands and local aficionados alike (i.e. Kentucky Irishman ginger Josh, scion of Savannah). Quite soft in the nose—sweet, some brown sugar, corn flakes, and wheat here and there. Hot crackle in the first sip, but thereafter very smooth and with some strong but balanced floral and honey tones. Finish on the longer side of medium and generally mellow. Altogether pleasant, and commendable for not trying to overplay its hand. But this subtly (which extends to the understated bottle) would likely pale in a shootout with the state’s biggest guns. Needs neither ice nor water.

Rating: 86

LeVecke – Jesse James Original American Outlaw Bourbon

MARKETED AS A hard-edged and roughshod dram aged three years, Jesse James is rather less harsh than its ad copy would suggest. Simple to take neat, might mix too cloyingly into other beverages, and with a growing corn/grain finish that lacks a really formidable bourbon crackle. Budget stuff, but could be worse.

Rating: 72

Four Roses – Small Batch Bourbon

HEAVY NOSE OF vanilla, but an explosive taste almost more sensorial than flavorful. Pepper, cinnamon, and rye flavors, but fairly rough. Dissipates into the roof of the mouth and up into the sinuses without having to swallow. A little too aggressive to enjoy in a relaxed manner.

Rating: 84