Heaven Hill Distillery – John E. Fitzgerald Larceny 1870 Straight Bourbon

THIS LATEST EFFORT from Heaven Hill claims a long legacy—back to 1870, unsurprisingly enough—and namedrops Pappy Van Winkle amidst its well-toned promotional material. The relevant details are that it’s a 92 proof straight bourbon distilled with wheat as its complementary grain in place of rye with the goal of a smoother profile. Perhaps, but only with water—taken neat, the deep amber Larceny is rather too pointed in its spice and barrel char. Once given some time to spread out and diluted just a touch, its mouthfeel becomes much rounder and more approachable, revealing vanilla, a bit of honey, some corn sweetness, and a slight flowery flourish in the lasting finish, where some roughness of the barrel notes return. Though aged for a six-year profile, Larceny has the pop of a young bourbon, tannic with fruit skins and a little husky. An arresting profile altogether and somehow more composed than its key descriptors would suggest, its steadied by a sturdy body and underlying notes of caramel. Altogether a reasonable buy at approximately $25, especially compared to some ill-fitted grain bills that retail for twice the price. That’s your cue, Koval…

Rating: 83

Jim Beam – Old Grand-Dad Bonded 100 Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon

100 PROOF, reportedly around 30% rye, and less than $20 for a handle, Old Grand Dad hits the palate with the same unsubtle pop of his orange bottle. There are no illusions of refinement here—Old Grand-Dad is a firebrand, a sharp-tongued codger, and proud of it. As he should be, frankly, as one of the top bargains for a robust high-rye bourbon, and a straight one besides.

Though by no means one-note, Old Grand-Dad’s overarching impression is unified, quickly revealing its charcoal and raw oak in the aroma, then turning spicy and slightly astringent on the palate. Rye and pepper slot into the alcohol heat of the finish, where the body tapers off, a little sharply but absent any plasticy burn. Once past the gruff exterior Old Grand-Dad shows a slightly softer side with some corn sweetness and low hints of banana, pear, and a drop of honey—a slight reprieve, but definitely more in the buckwheat vein than wildflower. Perhaps those fruit esters would be given a little more room with a douse of water and at 100 proof the spirit could certainly spare the dilution. It would also stand up handily as a mixer with anything from a splash of ginger ale to a full on mint julep. But Grand-Dad himself probably wouldn’t approve of such excitations, and he’s still fine company on his own. Once one gets used to his nettles.

Rating: 84

Against the Grain – We Brett It Wrong

PERHAPS WE BRETT IT WRONG’S name should have been a giveaway. Twice over, even, as it belongs to a series called ‘All Funked Up’. Based upon the “hoppy Saison” ‘We Spelt it Wrong’, Against the Grain wild-ified version was aged in Brettanomyces-riddled bourbon barrels to rather fuddling results. Brett and a little sourness define the early flavors with some little barrel notes emerging later, though without particular clarity. Saison liveliness is tamped down, along with the hops, while the base body (a blend of wheat and spelt) is further attenuated by extra sugar additions. The beer emerges more astringent and tingly than actually all that dry (at an estimated 2 Plato), and some ethyl acetate also swarms up in the finish. Rather discombobulated all in all; try again, lads.

Served: 750 ml bottle (Skyline Loft, FoBAB 2013, Chicago)

Rating: 74

West Sixth Brewing – IPA

MORE BEER FANS may know of Kentucky’s West Sixth brewing for their recent legal dust-up with Magic Hat than for their actual craft. Admittedly, their two logos were painfully similar and still are, but at least a settlement was reached with only feathers ruffled instead of bank accounts rifled. Word on the streets (of Lexington) is that a massive turnout–including private citizens’ petitions and alcohol vendors pulling Magic Hat from their shelves–helped effect a swift resolution that left West Sixth largely unscathed.

Fortunately, that’s not all the press that West Sixth has gotten. Their flagship IPA has won mad praise and is also Kentucky’s first canned craft beer. This tasting was drawn from the tap, though, at another local pioneer–The Village Idiot, Lexington’s first gastropub and a fine establishment in its own right.

American all the way, this IPA is hopped with four of the Cs–Cascade, Centennial, Columbus, and Citra in place of Chinook. Its color is golden, quite but not perfectly clear, with a creamy and semi-abundant head that settles nicely into a rim of lace. A promising pour. The nose is a bit dank at first, but Citra soon takes the lead with its characteristic allure of grapefruit and tangerine. Malt sweetness is a little elevated for an American IPA and provides a subtle but substantial backbone for both aroma and flavor. The body is medium to light despite the presence of several crystal malts, of which honey (presumably Gambrinus?) is especially notable. First discernible in the nose, it returns to blend with lemon in the aftertaste. It’s pleasantly level-headed compared to the typically bitter IPA smack, but there’s also a little too much water in the finish. Thus the final impression overall is less memorable than the first. The fairly elevated 7% ABV was surprising, too, as it is completely masked.

Yet strange as it sounds, it’s refreshing to see a brewery err on the side of caution instead of excess; despite their youth West Sixth have proven that they know “a little goes a long way.” It may not yet be ‘all the way’, but they’re off to a good start.

Served: On Tap (The Village Idiot, Lexington)

Rating: 88

Alltech’s Lexington Brewing and Distilling – Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale

BOURBON BARRELS are far and away the most popular sort for aging beer and spirits alike, since by law they can be used only once in their original roles before being discarded. Yet despite being the bourbon capital of the world, Kentucky has yet to produce a wealth of barrel-aged beers. Into that void about a decade past stepped Alltech, a brewing and distilling concern that purports to speak for “bourbon country” at large with their Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale. They decline to specify the source of their barrels and cite an aging process of “up to” six weeks, but neither vagary has stopped the brand from medaling in esteemed competitions like the Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup.

This praise is perplexing. In striving to be the paragon of beer and bourbon’s unique union, Alltech overshot their goal dramatically. The bourbon qualities supposed to define and elevate this beer end up as almost parodies of themselves and the ale itself is rather hard to pick out. The brewery’s use of the word ‘subtle’ to describe Bourbon Barrel Ale’s flavors is risible.

It’s nominally an English strong ale or somesuch, but pinning it down too precisely is a pointless exercise. Suffice to say it’s a malty amber-colored ale of around 8.2% ABV, modestly carbonated and immodestly sweet. The brewery promotes it as a digestif or late evening sipper, and it is indeed rich enough to serve for dessert. Yet it goes too far, invoking less of bourbon’s vanilla, oak, and rich grain crackle and more of confectionary like bubblegum or cotton candy. Perhaps also marshmallows or cookie, but those are too simple and pure a sugar for this sticky concoction. Though a number of traditional malty ale qualities are present early on the palate, their relatively thin presentation is enveloped by the sweetness in the nose and finish alike. English hop cultivars, technically present, are hopelessly overmatched. The actual beer here is just not robust enough in either body or mouthfeel to bear the weight of its adornments, which seem to impart more ‘flavoring’ than ‘flavor’. In other words, toppings instead of substance. Fluff instead of form. In small doses it may seem a satisfying indulgence for some cool autumn evening alongside a saucer of pecans and Camembert, but in retrospect it increasingly feels like sipping sugar from a snifter.

Served: On tap (The Village Idiot, Lexington)

Rating: 70

Woodford Reserve – Distiller’s Select Bourbon

GIVEN THE LOCATION of the distillery—a national historic site where the barrels are hand-rolled onto railroads, the tour guides collect social security, and even the distillery cat, Elijah, is 18 years old—it follows that Woodford Reserve is overall a laid-back and gentle bourbon. Its mash bill of 72% corn, 18% rye, and 10% barley yield a gentle, nearly confectionery nose: floral, banana, a little almond nutty, and plenty of vanilla. It’s triple-distilled in longneck Scotch stills and the barrels are flash-toasted and charred for 30 seconds, thus pulling the sap to the surface of the wood and prioritizing its sweetness in the final flavor over other agents like tannins, char, or even the oak itself. Fair amount of rye remains, though, which along with the tangy, comparatively sour-smelling yeast strain used in initial fermentation helps keep this from being cloying and enlivens the long and slightly smoky, slightly peppery finish. Good sipping material, and an American alternative for fans of Irish Whiskey fans. Bottled at 90 proof and aged on average 7.5 years. Modestly overpriced at nearly $40.

Rating: 86

Buffalo Trace – Eagle Rare 10-Year Old Single Barrel

RECOGNIZABLE AS A cousin to Buffalo Trace, Eagle Rare also fulfills its namesake as more regal and meticulous, gliding deeply along the taste buds instead of barreling over them. A bit deeper in hue, it boasts a smoky and seductively earthy nose with plenty of char buried not far beneath the surface. More caramel, tobacco, roasted nut oil and burnt grains in the flavor push aside the hints of melon that had lingered at the edges. Not quite to be compared to a smoky scotch, though, as its chewy body, spicy rye, and sweeter corn finish are all still notably present. Plenty of warmth, too, and that dry edge does also diminish its ability to coat and stick. Still fine for sipping—may respond well to a drop or two of water. 90 proof. High value around $25, decent at $30.

Rating: 89

Buffalo Trace – White Dog (prototype for Mash #1)

HOW TO JUDGE moonshine straight from the still? This tasting was at an even higher proof (144) than its bottling strength (125)–albino dog? A mighty wallop in any event, but actually a more balanced body and less aggressive overtones than heavily charred or smoky spirits. Thick and with burly legs, the corn is fairly strong in the nose, with rye coming up a little towards the end. Barley minimal. Not too much spice or complexity here, though—just phases of heat as it crawls down the throat, like smoldering sugar.

Rating: 86

Buffalo Trace – Buffalo Trace Bourbon

COMPLEX AND BOLD like its namesake, but then also perhaps a bit lacking in dexterity and subtlety. Color a medium-light amber, mash between 70-80% corn, 10-20% rye, and about 10% barley, with rye probably towards the lower end of that range. Yeast is comparatively mild and the mash’s aroma at beer strengths is thick, doughy, and with plenty of malt. Twice-distilled to around 145 proof, watered to around 90, then loaded in to 50-second charred barrels and then aged for aged eight years on the second floor, where temperatures changes are moderate. The result has a solid amber color and aroma rich with spice, some tobacco leaf, corn grain, and bitters. Definitely on the hotter side for palate entry, tracing a distinct line down the gullet and burning mildly. Plenty of finish to dissect, from allspice, clove, and pepper to the definite alcohol heat, tannic leather, and a bit of mint. Would stand up well in cocktails and is a solid value at $20, neither too sweet nor overly rough.

Rating: 85

Diageo – Bulleit Bourbon

A RELATIVE NEWCOMER to the scene, but one endorsed by learned hands and local aficionados alike (i.e. Kentucky Irishman ginger Josh, scion of Savannah). Quite soft in the nose—sweet, some brown sugar, corn flakes, and wheat here and there. Hot crackle in the first sip, but thereafter very smooth and with some strong but balanced floral and honey tones. Finish on the longer side of medium and generally mellow. Altogether pleasant, and commendable for not trying to overplay its hand. But this subtly (which extends to the understated bottle) would likely pale in a shootout with the state’s biggest guns. Needs neither ice nor water.

Rating: 86