Burn Stewart Distillers – Black Bottle Scotch (Old Green Version)

INITIALLY LAUNCHED in 1879, Black Bottle is no newcomer to the blended scotch scene, yet the past decade has brought it two new looks. The first was a buyout by Burn Stewart Distillers in 2003. The second and more substantial change was effected last year: a total repackaging of the bottle and a revamp of its recipe, both purportedly harking back to the look and flavor of Black Bottle as it existed pre-WWI. On such an occasion it seems meet to have one last round of the new-now-old recipe (as denoted by its longer-necked green bottle) before toasting its old-now-new successor. Or is that prede-successor?

A medium -light amber in the glass, Black Bottle’s bouquet are immediately indicative of its core provenance—Islay. Smoky, peated, dashed with some permanent marker, Black Bottle is rather more startling than a stereotypical budget blend and almost entirely in a good way. With some oxygen (or a dollop of water) it will smooth out with time, unfurling honeyed grains, slightly crisp almost like wheat, and lighter, mostly tart fruits like green apple. More enduring and memorable than any single aroma, though, is a warming aura that fills the nose and begins to creep down the back of the throat. This sensation transfers over entirely to the flavor, which is considerably softer than its initial aromas despite some initial spark, slight peppery crackle, and hint of char. Then, as with the aroma, the subtler second side is revealed—butterscotch, a little vanilla, and chloride-rich water for a slightly softened mouthfeel. The finish is of medium length and fairly well warming.

Islay is arguably the hardest Scotch profile for a blend to capture well, but Black Bottle makes a wholly admirable try. Although it does not quite deliver on its robust early promise, overall it boasts an array of articulate flavors and virtually none of the cheap whisky corruptions. Indeed, even more notable than its taste is its value; at around $18 it counts as a superior bargain for any kind of blend.

Rating: 85

William Grant & Sons – Grant’s Family Reserve Blended Scotch

A FADED CARAMEL color with light legs, Grant doesn’t cut an especially attractive figure in the glass. Yet it makes up for this deficiency where it counts with generous aromas and layers of flavor a cut above boilerplate blends. The nose opens sweetly, carrying more banana and vanilla than grain, but further on develops notes of heather, oak, baking spice, and a bit of peat. On the palate it is lively and young, with its barrel woodiness tingling powerfully towards the front of the mouth. Yet its flavors are well-proportioned and, being largely from Speyside, the blend maintains a smooth character overall. Some pear emerges towards its conclusion before a spicy citrus warmth akin to honey lemon tea that slides down easily along with a little hint of Speyside’s soft water.

More engaging than Johnnie Walker Red and cheaper besides, William Grant is also the largest independent distiller in Scotland. Only third behind international conglomerates Diageo and Pernod Ricard, they also produce a number of other spirits including the estimable Hendrick’s Gin and this one little brand of malt called Glenfiddich. Slainte to independence.

Diageo – Dalwhinnie Single Highland Malt 15 Year Old

HERE IS A WORTHY dram. The remote Dalwhinnie distillery is situated just about smack-dab in the middle of Scotland and indisputably in the Highlands. In fact, it’s reportedly the highest of them all at over 1,000 ft. above sea level. Thus it’s a natural representative in the branded Classic Malts series (now managed by Diageo) as a gentler companion alongside rich heavyweights like Lagavulin and Talisker.

In the glass it shows a golden meadlike hue with narrow but slow legs. The nose opens softly with leather, vanilla, and notes of honey apropos of its color (caramel added, but not terribly much). On the palate heather spiciness carries into the midsection with some relatively mild prickle from its 86 proof, where an oaky warmth is forward along with honey and grain. Peat smoke is very gentle—a silk handkerchief to wrap up other flavors instead of being one itself. This neat little bundle develops into a deep warming crackle and a long, lingering finish of nuts, a nearly cocoa level of smoothness, and a touch more of smoke’s coating textures.

Well-matured to 15 years, Dalwhinnie may not be a profoundly deep malt but it executes with an alluring and encompassing grace. Combining notes of fruit, florals, honey, and smoke, it’s a winsome balance of powers from a Highland exemplar.

Dewar’s – White Label Blended Scotch

SIMILAR IN COLOR to its 12-year elder, Dewar’s White Label basic blend has the typical amber color of most caramel-added blends. It can readily be distinguished by its body, though, which is considerably lighter, showing many thin and swiftly sheeting legs. On the nose it is similarly fresh, showing young oak, nail polish remover, some vanilla, and cereal grains. Maybe some pale stone fruit. A somewhat charcoal smokiness comes through in the second wave and a little wet alcohol must. On the palate it pops with some initial heat then settles into a mild texture, round and warm though stopping short of cloying. The underlying smokiness from the nose takes a more lead role here, though overall the impression remains considerably smoother than the aroma suggested. Some returning heat and light pepperiness in the finish, which doesn’t linger in texture so much as a back-palate sensation. A little plastic in the aftertaste. Decent solo, if rather non-committal, it’s prime mixer material.

Rating: 74

Dewar’s – 12 Year Old Blended Scotch

PALE AMBER COLOR, very tenacious coating of the glass with large and sluggish legs. Its aroma is deep, a bit smoky but not aggressively so–rather a slow prickle at the back of the nostrils with undertones of golden toasted grain, honey, and a little rhubarb, perhaps. Its body on the palate is medium, with a bit of crackle sandwiched between a lightly peaty bottom and thicker honey top. Not sweet, though, and with a fairly finish–that is to say, clear but not too bold and not overstaying its welcome. Too thick on the grain, though, and a bit watery at the edges if not properly coddled by the tongue. Still a reasonable blend overall, if it can be had for under $25 (closer to $20, really).

Rating: 86

The Famous Grouse – Black Grouse

A LITTLE DARKER than the average caramelized whisky blend, approaching a light mahogany perhaps. Moderately peated nose, not too aggressive and rather well balanced with some oak wood chip, caramel, and faint fruit sweetness (pear?). Some spice on the palate, a little late burn and a body a bit lighter than expected. A good dwell in the finish sits around the roof of the mouth and tastefully recalls its peat and grain basis. It doesn’t quite have the depth and body to make it a real standout amongst peated whiskies, but it is a moderately-priced blend, after all, ranging from Highland Park in the north through Macallan near Speyside. The tasteful incorporation of smoke into the slightly sweeter Famous Grouse template make it a good crossover candidate, an easier sipper than Islays, and a more considerate partner for smoked chicken or a peppery stir-fry.

Rating: 88

Diageo – Johnnie Walker Red Label

THE DEFAULT BLENDING whisky from a blend-only brand, Red Label never set out to be a straight sipper, though the scorn it endures from some in the scotch world seems ready to overlook this fact. In brief, it is a serviceable mixer, widely affordable, and straightforwardly inoffensive. A ‘classic’ insofar as it has survived a century on the not-quite-bottom shelf without diluting the Striding Man’s illustrious Blue shadow. But to the tasting itself: Red pours a translucent, rather nondescript yellow or nearly synthetic-looking orange without particularly standout legs. Its aroma is very sweet, leading with butterscotch and continuing into apple, vanilla, golden raisins, light honey, and some char towards the end. This in particular cues the flavor, which is a bit hot and rough, the burn of the barrel being rather too apparent and the youth of the grains overweening. Once this is gotten used to, though, one can also discern corn and bits of leather. Overall it is slightly flat, too forward with its sweetness, and with a short, plasticy finish. Keep walking…onto something else.

Rating: 73

Aberlour – A’bunadh

FIRST RESPONSE to tasting this—at Ølbutikken and fed by Olle the Swede, bless him—was ‘Fy fan,’ but perhaps ‘Great Scott’ would have been more apropos. Non-chill filtered, cask strength of 59.7% ABV, and mighty all around. Looks like an amber rum and smells the same from a distance—vanilla, clove, Christmas kind of potpourri spices from the Oloroso sherry butts its aged in (also responsible for its entirely natural color)—but up close unsheathes some potent, sinus-clearing, faintly acrid daggers. Not chemical or raw eye-watering alcohol, however, but rather an uplifting warmth and roasted crackle roundly dispersed in the palate. Does not evaporate, leaving a satisfying warmth and substance to actually swallow. Thick with cherry, ginger, and even some chocolate towards the back, one could almost call it luxurious and use it as a replacement for liqueur, but at this quality (and price), best not to. A winter warmer of scotch if ever there were one.

Served: Batch 28 (2009)

Rating: 96

Glenlivet – 12 Year Single Malt

THE COLOR IS ALARMING, it must first be said: a synthetic-looking orange of unnatural transparency and vibrancy. Legs sturdy but not too thick. Aroma of fresh oak grain, lightly of barley, orange peel, and vanilla. A little hot on entry to the palate, but pleasantly peppery once it establishes itself. Quite a pop of orange again, as found concentrated in chocolate, then coriander and coca again in a thinning finish. Doesn’t last too long and a little too watery to respect deeply. A Speyside ‘daily dram’.

Rating: 85

Laphroiag – Quarter Cask Islay Single Malt

NOW THAT’S THE deep magic. Burnished butterscotch color and bottled at 48% ABV. Bouquet opens with spring flowers and heather, but the first close (and lingering) aroma is of paint’s heady fumes, perhaps the thinner more than the paint itself. Then pepper, nickel, and an earthy tone like clay (Laphroaig themselves say ‘gorse’). Tide of peat upon entry to the palate, powerfully smoky, which quickly erupts into a crackle of char and roasted malt. As with chili powder, it can cause a cough if one inhales too quickly after sipping. Settles into the palate like embers of an ancient fire, drying, allowing some sweetness of cereal just peering through towards the finish. Several drops of water open up its aroma powerfully and leave its key flavors intact, but allows the background sweetness of the finish to assert itself a little more over the initial potent burn.

Rating: 95