Allagash – Dubbel

ALLAGASH GENERALLY does very well with Belgian style ales; indeed, it’s their raison d’être and made them one of America’s more celebrated brewers. Their flagship, a Witbier simply called White, is a gateway to both European tradition and new craft brewing alike, while specialty releases like the bourbon-barrel aged tripel Curieux offer luxury to the experienced palates.

Strange, then, that their effort at a style as fundamental as abbey-style Dubbel would turn out so unremarkable. Looking the part, at least (a deep tawny brown with a robust tan head) the beer’s shortcomings become apparent from the first whiff. Instead of rich candied fruits, toffee, warming spice, and a touch of alcohol, Dubbel focuses on phenols to a fault. Certainly these yeast byproducts are appropriate to Belgian dubbels, but their notes of medicine, chlorine, and sometimes plastic are far more palatable when couched in other flavors. Either due to the strains used, low fermentation temperatures, or suchlike, this beer does not develop the sweeter bouquet, complexity of flavors, and depth on the palate for which Dubbels are rightly revered.

Still, the beer’s fundamentals are sound (as with every Allagash product), from its crisp body to uplifting carbonation and appealing color. Even a mediocre dubbel still has its charms, so judged in a vacuum this beer would probably even be quite pleasant. Yet compared to its inspiration—and Allagash’s own potential—this Dubbel is a disappointment.

Served: On tap (Clementi’s, Arlington Heights)

Rating: 84

Goose Island – Pere Jacques (2012-2013 Vertical)

AS THE MOST conventional of Goose Island’s Vintage Ales by a considerable margin, Pere Jacques is almost easy to overlook. While other members of this Belgian-inspired series use wild yeast (Matilda, etc.), fruit adjuncts, or bold spices (Pepe Nero), Pere Jacques is a straightforward Dubbel-style ale. Yet Dubbels are often still complex despite their simpler formulas, and so Pere Jacques fits alongside its cohorts without need of grapefruit zest, port barrel aging, or suchlike.

Last year’s review of Pere Jacques was a little abbreviated, so this two-year vertical aims to pay these abbey-style fathers more contemplative respects. It’s also a timely visitation, since this fall the Vintage ales follow the footsteps (or flock migration?) of Goose Island’s Classic series in a nationwide rollout.

2013 Vintage

The pour is a beautiful auburn/orange with a respectable head, though it doesn’t last long. The nose shows a touch of earthy, slightly spicy Saaz hops that are mild on the palate as befits the style. Considerably less traditional is the presence of sugar in the aroma as well as the sheer density of the malt bill. Gobs of Special B in addition to wheat, rye, and caramel make for a sizeable and bready mouthfeel. Some nuance comes from the impression of baking spices (also coriander) and a bit of mineralic seasoning at the edges.

This results in a medium body a bit heavy for the style—even leaving a little sweet residue on the lips—though still nicely effervescent throughout. Some licorice and sweet fruits develop later on the palate to counter the earlier caramel focus. The 8.6% ABV is extremely well-masked until at room temperature and then still is only a small bump. The finish readily shows off its yeast, a pleasant strain that is welcome after the foregoing malt intensity. Yet overall there’s something a bit lacking here. More phenolic spiciness or stronger minerals would be useful for a stronger sign-off: as of now it’s tasty and companionable, just lacking for a little special zip.

Served: 12 oz bottled 6/8/13

Rating: 89

2012 Vintage

One of the foremost attributes that makes abbey ales age so well is their great liveliness when young. This is often achieved via high carbonation and pronounced spiciness that stands up to the Dubbel’s rich maltiness. Considering the already pronounced malt character of a fresh Pere Jacques, an extra year was unlikely to work to its advantage.

Indeed, the 2012 version was altogether milder than its younger brother—smoother, yes, but not so much matured as subdued. There was also a bit of a soapy swell after the midpalate, though it thankfully was overtaken by stronger fruit impression like cherry and raisin (likely that Special B again), even more prominent here than in its younger peer. Molasses also was a stronger impression than caramel. Nearly all the flavors this Pere Jacques had to offer were pleasing aside from that soapiness, which we’ll consider a singular defect. But it is just not sufficiently balanced for long cellaring.

On the plus side, this means that a fresh vintage—less carbonated and fuller-bodied than its archetype—is already in peak form. Though the good father himself might protest, here’s once instance where patience is not a virtue and instant gratification can be had without guilt.

Served: 12 oz bottled 10/18/12

Rating: 86

Bières de Chimay – Chimay Première (Red)

A RICHLY CARBONATED, moderately dark copper dubbel, recognizable as kin to the Blue for its light body and slight medicinal edge. Naturally a simpler brew, though, and not quite as strong (7% vs 9%). Overtones of toffee and the suggestion of cherry in the nose, but a more direct flavor with a bit of citric zip. Dark malts and phenolic edges more potent than the yeast, making for a fairly light mouthfeel.

Served: 750 ml bottled late 2011

Rating: 91

Duvel Moortgat NV – Maredsous 8 Brune

NOTING THAT MAREDSOUS is owned and bottled by Duvel makes sense, as this brown ale is almost an answer to Duvel’s own flagship pale—quite effervescent, a great poof of confection for its head, and premonitions of citrus wrapped around raisins, pure dark malts (neither roasted nor too chocolaty), and a decisively swift phenolic sweep through that leaves no lingering bitterness. Substantial but not chewy body and a touch of smoke from two months spent in the bottle. Doesn’t immediately knock one out, but upon reflection is very tastefully done.

Served: 750 ml bottle best by 01/2013

Rating: 90

New Belgium – Abbey Ale

PREDICTABLY, NEW BELGIUM’S core marketing message leans upon its Belgian values, with this 7% brown ale arguably serving as its cornerstone. It is ostensibly in the dubbel category, featuring Belgian yeast, minimal hops (IBU of 20 middling for the style), and a broad, complex malt profile (Carapils and C-80 two notables). Naturally, though, it is an Americanized version, being heavier on the chocolate malt, lighter on the mouthfeel, less intricately spiced, and more amber in color, etc. But still fairly inviting and well balanced, putting some sweet candy aroma atop slightly herbal flavors, banana, and toast.  Fairly dry finish, decent head and some lacing. It does the job, in short, but struggles to leap off the shelf when stocked alongside authentic imports, some of which now are just as easily had. Great respect is due, however, for being a pioneer of monkish brews in America; since being introduced in 1991 its distinctively ringed neck (shades of Westvleteren) has accumulated an admirable array of domestic and international medals. Fair odds that it remains the most popular dubbel-style ale produced in the States, and one could do far worse.

Served: 12 oz bottle

Rating: 88

Note: Their Trippel (two p’s) is equally if not more laudable, particularly when considering its even more rarefied competition.

Ommegang – Abbey Ale

ONE OF THE BEST AMERICAN EFFORTS at a Belgian Trappist dubbel, but with sufficient American twist (i.e. additives) to distinguish it. Features a robust red color, appropriately voluminous head, and with an earthy, almost faintly fusty aroma that invokes cellar-aging without the immediate density or saturation. First flavor impressions are of figs and cinnamon, then a malt-heavy midsection of developing spices and a bit of citrus (cumin, anise) that invoke big red wine tannins. A little mocha, too. Finish is reminiscent of the aroma (Styrian Golding hops?) and dry enough to sweep up the preceding sweetness. Alcohol and very slight phenol presence lingers a little, but stops short of astringency. Rather charming.

Served: 750 ml bottle

Rating: 91

Goose Island – Pere Jacques Dubbel (2011)

A HALF-BROWN, half amber ruby red dubbel-style ale of 8%. Belgian yeasts are notable, but not so pronounced as in the ‘authentic’ variety; rather, the broad malt profile (caramel, wheat, rye, etc.) dominates with a chewy, growing sweetness and alcoholic aftertaste that eventually becomes a little overbearing. Head a little foamy and delicate. Good, but probably better as a dinner accompaniment.

Served: 650 ml bottled 6/10/11

Rating: 87

Note: See also two-year vertical of 2012 and ’13 vintages.

Brasserie de Rochefort – Rocheforts 6, 8 & 10

UNLIKE MOST TRAPPIST BREWERIES, which adhere loosely to a dubbel/tripel/quad kind of hierarchy or (in La Trappe’s case) branch off into various other continental specialties, the three ales from Brasserie de Rochefort all share a basic recipe and exist along a hazy continuum. Strong dark ales, not a tripel amongst them, it’s said only an increasing dosage of sugars and malt differentiate the 6’s more dubbel qualities from the 10’s quadrupel trappings. Thus, like a close family portrait, Rochefort’s children reveal one another in reflection and by sampling all three in tandem one receives the best impression of each.

Rochefort 6

OPENING THE CEREMONIES is the 6, which announces itself with a deep auburn pour and picture-perfect head proportion (for a Belgian). Big aromas of bready malt, cherry, milder fruits like pear as well, and toffee, all well supported by the flavor itself. An ABV of 7.5% is believable, being more notable towards the back end, slightly clinical yet not uncouth. Carbonation is present and a touch peppery, more prominent than in the higher gravity brews that follow, but still judiciously balanced with the lightly toasted malts and slightly understated candied yeast sweetness. Still altogether more sweet than spicy, but still with sufficient attenuation to not feel like overmuch like a dessert drink. A tasteful classic and deviously drinkable.

Served: 33 cl bottle best by 08/09/15

Rating: 92

Rochefort 8

SUCCEEDING ROCHEFORT’S 6, is their 8, which at 9.2% is rather stronger than a dubbel and more in the ‘strong dark’ territory. But again, the distinction is mostly academic, as the two are more closely related than is the 8 to the 10. Perhaps the first notable difference is the more pronounced yeast influence, which works its influence from the bouquet to the finish. Fortunately it is a fine one, a little more earthy than medicinal and with some berry overtones. Plenty of sediment in the bottom of the bottle, though no grainy mouthfeel is detected even when emptied to the last. Less dominated by fruit than its lesser brother and unexpectedly steady-on for its strength. More herbal back notes than spice, and altogether a portrait of balance.

Served: 33 cl bottle best by 01/02/17

Rating: 94

Rochefort 10

AN UNEXPECTED AND INSPIRED DENOUEMENT to this triptych, weighing in as a quad of 11.3%. Similarly dark to its brethren and capable of a fairly thick head despite a lower feel of carbonation, the strength and concentrated flavors of the 10 make it most easily classifiable, though still not predictable. The first significant twist is the nose, which is lighter, less spicy, and more phenolic than expected with some lemon and licorice. The complementary flavors are simply regal—thick and malty, a little medicinal, and with a slow-growing alcohol dissolve into the palate that cleanses the finish of the esters, yeastiness, and sprigs of hop crispness that unfold over the palate. Not quite so big in body as some other quads, but with a self-assured presence and plenty of booze that could catch up all kinds of quick. But one bottle is satisfaction enough; to overindulge in such a distinguished treat would simply be disrespectful.

Served: 33 cl bottle best by 27/06/17

Rating: 96

Brouwerij Alken Maes – Grimbergen Dubbel

A CONSIDERABLY MORE ATTENUATED and slightly peppery (and ginger?) brew from Grimbergen than their standard Blonde. Chocolate color, slightly flighty but generous head, with a cherry aroma that gives way to a slightly roasted malt and cidery center. Less in the way of yeasts than expected, with a fair amount of alcohol slickness (6.5% showing here more than in the 6.7% blonde) before a dry, effervescent finish.

Served: On tap (Firkin, Libertyville)

Rating: 89

Brouwerij St. Bernardus – St. Bernardus Prior 8

The intriguing history of the St. Bernardus brewery has been explored thoroughly and well enough elsewhere that it bears no exhaustive repeating here. Suffice to say that St. Bernardus made its name in post-War Belgium as the contracted brewer for the Abbey St. Sixtus (better known as Westvleteren) for nearly fifty years. When that arrangement eventually lapsed, the monks at Westvleteren brought their production back in-house and St. Bernardus established its own brand; the recipe, they say, did not change. Thus the brewery itself has been active for many decades but only recently begun to accumulate broader accolades for its work. And although it is a secular endeavor, St. Bernardus still is strongly associated with the Trappist culture: their brewery lies a scant few miles from Westvleteren’s, hard upon the border with France, and a rosy-cheeked monk adorns each of their abbey-style brews.

A SOUND PLACE to begin with any Abbey-style lineup is the baseline dubbel, which for St. Bernardus is the Prior 8. (They do brew another dubbel, the 6.7% Pater 6, but it is less common.) Appropriately, the Prior 8 is a dead-on 8% ABV dubbel that pours the expected dark toffee with a generous but not too thick head and an unexpectedly fruity bouquet. Raspberries and cherries lead the way here, with some alcohol slickness (even they call it “oily”) dueling candied sweetness for the final word of the waft, so to speak. All of the above carry over into the flavor, each falling into place with almost disappointing efficiency. Well-balanced between the distinctive Belgian yeasts and grainy, toasted malt, but warming temperatures make it much more bitter—coriander and ginger replace sweet red fruit—and bring out the alcoholic aftertaste. Relative to the style its complexities are limited, but still a well-structured and rewarding presentation.

Served: 750 ml bottle best before 29.06.17

Rating: 90